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We lay face down

On the lush green grass

In the shade of an ancient oak

Beside a glistening blue lake

In which mallards, moorhens

And a cormorant interloper

Swam free.

Our hearts seemed

As full as they could be

At least for now.

We listened to Joni and Neil

On a tinny tape recorder,

As we clasped each other’s hands

And glazed into each other’s eyes

Through a thick Panama red,

Or was it Lebanese black,

Haze.

Our love seemed

Set to last for ever

At least for now.

We knitted clumsy daisy chains

And giggled at the geeks

Hunched over dreary textbooks

In the glinting glass-filled library,

Named for a vice-chancellor

We never cared to know or meet.

Our lives semed joyful,

Sweet, carefree

At least for now.

It was a year before I saw you again,

Dancing, or rather stumbling

In the courtyard fountains,

Eyes dead, clothes ripped

And hair unwashed,

Lost in a darker, more dangerous world

Than the one we had enjoyed

On that glowing afternoon

Twelve months before.

I cannot now remember how

We met, or parted, at that time;

Even your name escapes my memory,

But what I do recall is that

I loved you then with all my heart,

And do so once again today

At least for now.


From Menlo Park and Mountain View

They stalk the streets where strollers go,

Forbidding beasts with blacked out eyes

Bound for Sunset, Haight and Castro.

As dusk falls over Salesforce Tower,

And Transamerica’s tip fades,

They blend in with the growing gloom

Yet still stand out on their parades.   

Beside a bougainvillea bush

Between wide Dolores and Church,

Silently these modern Molochs

Pull up to of their cargo purge.

They vomit forth a dozen men,
Each unaccompanied and young,

Not a word spoken between them

Nor glance of recognition sprung.

Their only friends matching backpacks

From which hang heavy hydro flasks,

Courtesy of the company  

That pays them for their key tech tasks.

This quiet yet purposeful dance

Will recommence next morn at eight,

When partners jog to coffee shops,

Before their nail and yoga dates.


A bright, brisk morning

In a small English town,

I order an extra shot americano

In the one coffee house

That does not reek of grease,

And take a seat outside.

From the doubtful comfort of my

Three and a half legged plastic chair

I scan the temptations around me:

“Nails Palace – Professional Nail Care for Ladies”,

“Cash Generator – the Buy, Sell and Loan Store”,

“Tanning Heaven”,

And the Salvation Army’s “Community Store”,

Promising “Heart to God, Hand to Man”.

“Eel Pie Island”, specialists in all day breakfasts,

Proudly proclaims in yellow, peeling letters,

It is a “Caf’e”, an apostrophe planted

Between the “f” and “e”.

The “Hot 4 U Pizza, Chicken and Kebab” house

Has closed, victim of too much competition

In the fast food field,

Proof that you CAN have

Too much of a good thing.

Unless it’s burgers and jumbo sausage rolls.

Obesity is a badge of honour here.

In frayed makeshift marquees

And spread along the pavement,

Traders display their wares –

Leather jackets, shell suits,

Batteries, watches, mobile phones, 

Toys, rugs, carpets, curtains,

Handbags, purses and luggage –

Each screaming the critical selling point of

Affordability.

Relatively.

The saucy entreaties of the meat wagon guy

To “come on girls, don’t be shy,

Give my lovely meat a try”

Trigger giggles but no takers;

A further invitation to pinch his pork loins

Is similarly snubbed.

Granville’s traditional barber’s shop

Has closed after fifty years;

Its red and white striped pole

No longer rotates, confirming

There’s nothing for the weekend here.

Supplanted by a succession

Of glitzy Turkish emporia

Offering an eye watering array

Of treatments for every part

Of the modern male head and face.

The Lord Raglan pub is also boarded up,

A ragged, handwritten paper sign

Flaps in the vape drenched breeze;

Some wag has inserted an “i”

Between the words “to” and “let”.

Country crooners from the fifties

Trill through the babble

Of Bengali, Romanian, Arabic

And English

That assail my ears.

The RAC canvasses for new recruits

But most people here do not drive,

Unless you count the cavalcade of

Motorised scooters and wheelchairs

Wreathed with union jacks and teddy bears

Parked outside the padlocked toilets.

Bald middle aged white men, 

Their relationship with teeth

Over,

Flaunt their body art

Of indecipherable oriental slogans,

Football team allegiances

And the obligatory catalogue

Of proud progeny,

Many of whom they have

Not seen for years.

Japanese tosas and pit bull terriers,

Acquired more for their menace

Than their questionable cuteness,

Slowly encircle each other,

Doing nothing more threatening

Than exploring each other’s private parts.

Teenage mums congregate outside Gregg’s 

To share a cigarette and debate

Last night’s episode of Love Island,

To compare frilly pram accessories,

And to show off the clothes just bought

For Noah and Amelia in Primark.

Occasionally they turn around to bark

At their same bored and testy toddlers

Committing the heinous crime of

Being children.

An Albert Steptoe tribute act

Stutters along the street,

Peering professionally

Into every bin and doorway

For bottles, fag ends

And unfinished food scraps,

Leaving the council street cleaner

To deal with the discarded needles.

The midday sun glints through

The single, leafless tree,

Where neither Vladimir nor Estragon wait,

As I drain my second americano

And head for home. 

And yet, it is I who feels observed,

A figure of curiosity,

Even suspicion,

With my fancy coffee,

Collection of Eliot’s poetry

And notebook and pen,

Observing and trying to capture

Life.


On what would have been his 106th birthday, a poem from the great Lawrence Ferlinghetti, founder and owner of the City Lights bookstore in San Francisco. Never have its sentiments been more pertinent.

Pity the nation whose people are sheep
And whose shepherds mislead them
Pity the nation whose leaders are liars
Whose sages are silenced
and whose bigots haunt the airways
Pity the nation that raises not its voice
but aims to rule the world
by force and by torture
And knows
No other language but its own
Pity the nation whose breath is money
and sleeps the sleep of the too well fed
Pity the nation Oh pity the people of my country
My country, tears of thee
Sweet land of liberty!


You were instantly friends with my wife

Nearly thirty years ago,

Since, sharing countless photographs –

She grasping a gin and tonic

And you, well, just sitting there.

You were not built for comfort,

The black sheep of the bar

Among the beer stained stools,

Wood backed benches,

Vintage Beat memorabilia

And framed newspaper cuttings.

Though card payments

Have largely usurped cash,

And berets been replaced

By Giants baseball caps,

You’ve not changed;

Apart from a much needed

Covid-era makeover

When the bar sat empty

And hands were otherwise idle.

Four years crawled past

During which we thought

We had seen the last of your

Faded, creaking glory;

But you were waiting

In the usual place,

Sturdier and cleaner than ever.

.

Few others seem to share

The fascination you hold for us

As they stride past in pursuit

Of more conventional

Rear end resting places.

But I wonder if Jack or Allen

Or more likely Lawrence,

From across the alley

Ever lounged in your

Elegant wicker straitjacket?

How many more times

We will have the chance

To enter that threshold

To find you there

Is not in my gift,

But you will always remain

At least a conversation piece.

If not a photo opportunity.


I dreamt long last night of San Francisco,
As I have done so many nights before;
I left my heart there thirty years ago,
No more was I waiting outside her door.

Sitting upon summer brown Bernal Hill,
Watching the golden city laid before me   
Like a lover spread ‘cross a crumpled bed,
In no sweeter place would I rather be.

Standing astride the stunning Sunset steps

As the cool fog weaves its wild, wondrous spell,
Slicing Sutro Tower in half before,
In a heartbeat, it returns and all’s well.

Hanging for dear life from the cable car
I crest the hill on Hyde at dawn of day,
Siren song from all the foghorns moaning
As we hurtle down to the glistening bay.

Eating popovers by Pacific shore
Among the tourists and locals well dressed,
Humming along to O Sole Mio
While wrestling a ristretto at Trieste.

Hailing Josh Norton and his doting flock,
As they follow him on the Barbary Coast,
Waiting two hours in Zazie’s lengthening line
For bacon, eggs benedict and French toast.

Hunting for tie-dye tees in Hippie Haight,
Paying Harvey homage on Castro Street,
Reading a novel on the F Streetcar
As it clanks along to a Market beat.

Drinking a cool, tall glass of Anchor Steam
With ghosts of Ginsberg, Neal and Kerouac,
In North Beach’s beloved beat retreat
With Joyce’s peering portrait at my back.

Gorging on Gilroy’s garlic fries at the yard
As gulls circle above to claim what’s left,
Pablo slams a mighty walk off splash hit
To leave downhearted Dodgers fans bereft.

Sharing tales of shows at the Fillmore West
In Martha and Brothers at breakfast break,
The Blackpool boat tram slithers past and waves
To Lovejoy’s ladies taking tea and cake.

The scent of jasmine on our Noe porch,
Sea lions cavorting on the wharfside pier,
Sourdough with Coppola Sauvignon blanc,
And that “bracelet of bridges” held so dear.

These and other images flood my mind –
Painted houses, murals and gleaming bay,
Bowls of cioppino and Irish coffees,
I curse the undue advent of the day.


Nimble nuns scurry across the square

Heading for their next service fix,

Neatly sidestepping Vespa riders

Who twist and jerk and shudder

Between the imperceptible lanes

That mean as little to them

As pedestrians and traffic lights.

Perched in the middle of the piazza,

A poliziotta municipale

In pristine white helmet and gloves,

In a whirl of her arms

And ear-splitting whistle,

Valiantly struggles to

Manage the morning mayhem.

Every Fiat Panda or Lancia Ypsilon,

Oblivious to battle scars

Of bumps and scrapes,

Jostles for precious –

And inconceivable –

Parking spaces.

Across the red, rutted rooftops

Dogs howl in unison

With the wail of ambulances

And hubbub of honking,

While disoriented tourists

Are pursued and seduced

By waiters with winning smiles

Into perusing the menu turistico.

Outside a small coffee house

Beside a deconsecrated church,

A middle aged woman

Dripping in Gucci and Armani,

Caresses her cappuccino

(It is not quite mezzogiorno yet),

And takes a slow, sultry draw on

Her third Muratti Chiaro cigarette.


No more the need to force the pace

While others a back seat will take,

But bide my time and choose my theme

And there my contribution make.

No more to crow of what I’ve done

In lieu of praise from others’ cries,

But show humility and calm

For that is where contentment lies.

No more to crave the company

Of those whose sly promises I scorn

But reciprocate their silence

And their absence no longer mourn.

Find a comfortable corner

Of a welcoming coffee house,

To while away wild winter days

And those elusive words to rouse.

I know too well the time will come

When from the world I’ll no more hide,

To speak again and play my part

But for now I am satisfied

Being quiet.


I pass through the door

Where they check

IQ instead of ID

Subjected to neither

By the affable doorman

In tweed jacket

And corduroy pants

Lounging on a stool

That looks as if it might

Cave in under him

At any moment.

I take a seat upstairs

At a glass topped table

Resisting insistent requests

From the genial female server  

To have another lethal shot

Of gin and tonic

But I eventually reason

At only seven bucks

Why not?

Twelve feet beneath me

Across the ornamented alley

An ageing Chinese guy

Sells vintage magazines

Punk as well as Beat related,

From a wonky trestle table

Outside City Lights

And chats to a tour guide

Whose Vietnamese party

Scatters to take photographs.

Over my shoulder, James Joyce

Squints at a bottle of Jameson’s

Behind the well stocked bar

And from a yellowing poster

William Burroughs bemoans

The day he killed his wife.

The fleet is in town,

Fresh-faced, well scrubbed

Serious young men

From Jackson, Mississippi

And Greenville, South Carolina

Stare open-mouthed at

Cartoons of bare buttocks

And unpatriotic sentiments

Posted on the walls around them.

“In this far out city

Yet

Even here

On the left side of the world”

Guests line up to

Thank them for their service

And pester them for selfies.

The 8 Bayshore Muni

Meanders up Columbus

And catches the lights

On Broadway before

The Condor sign

Where Carol Doda

Once titillated guests

With her

Twin Peaks.

As my third drink is delivered

At the next table an elderly man

With white beard and pigtail

Tells tales of Gregory and Jack

Hoping to impress

Switched on young women

From Berkeley and Stanford.

While at the end of the bar

Clutching bottles of Boston lager

The best minds of their generation

Prattle of apps and analytics.


From the days of the Gold Rush and Barbary Coast, and through the last century when celebrated local columnist, Herb Caen, could be found perched on his favourite stool at the Washington Square Bar & Grill or Gold Dust Lounge, San Francisco has been a notorious drinking town. 

For nearly thirty years we have frequented a lot of bars in the City, but one in particular continues to beckon every time we touch down at SFO.

A few groggy steps across Jack Kerouac Alley from the equally legendary City Lights booksellers, we had first crossed the threshold of Vesuvio Café on the final night of our first visit in 1995. Emerging from the nearby Stinking Rose restaurant where they “season our garlic with food” (and wine for that matter), we were parched.

Almost anywhere that sold alcohol would have been welcome.

But this was no ordinary bar.

It gave the appearance of having changed little since the days it was the epicentre of the Beat Generation. The walls were festooned with artworks, photographs and newspaper cuttings of celebrated visitors. Free cultural leaflets and magazines lay scattered on every available surface.

After a show or dinner, this became the place to conclude an evening’s entertainment. Equally, following an afternoon shopping expedition from Union Square through Chinatown to North Beach, it was the natural place to relax. Initially, we would sit downstairs at one of the glass topped tables, preferably at the one with the slatted wicker chair that became increasingly rickety over the ensuing years.

The return visit from the quirky gents toilet in the cellar allowed me to tip my imaginary hat to Dylan and Ginsberg in the photo of them at the top of the staircase.

In later years, we headed for the table in the alcove upstairs beneath the large framed photograph of James Joyce – perfect for people watching and following live Giants action on one of the small televisions above the bar.

Hot days would demand beer (Sierra Nevada Pale Ale or Sam Adams), but especially during the evening, gin and tonics were called for in advance of walking back along Montgomery Street towards Market and journeys back to apartments in Hayes Valley, NOPA, Noe Valley and Bernal Heights, by Muni, taxi, or more latterly Uber.

One seemingly ordinary incident on a quiet Tuesday afternoon in April ten years ago sums up Vesuvio’s appeal.

Two balding young men in hooped t-shirts and navy blue shorts planted their bulky backpacks on the sidewalk while they searched for their I.D. to gain entry. The doorman, in tweed jacket and brown corduroy pants, lounging on a chair that looked like it might cave in under him at any moment, gave them a cursory, but professional, glance, took a heavy drag of his cigarette, and waved them in.

As they threw their swag down on the first seats inside, and took large quaffs of their Amstel beer, one said:

“This is the place, man. We’re home bro”.

As I sit now upstairs at a table overlooking the alley, I occasionally avert my eyes from the Giants game in Colorado to observe an elderly tour guide, with frayed satchel over her shoulder, halting on the corner to recount the night Jack Kerouac spent in the bar when he was meant to be joining Lawrence Ferlinghetti at Big Sur. His small coterie of Japanese students, however, giggle and snap enthusiastically away at the bare bottomed woman sign above the door.

Yes, I was home too.