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Posts Tagged ‘San Francisco’


I have stood beside the crossroads

And massaged the liberty bell;

I have skied down lakeside mountains

And ridden rollercoaster hell;

I have peered into deep canyons  

And seen eagles in desert skies;

I have sat aboard the L train

And tried on cowboy boots for size;

I have walked across great bridges

And crawled up long, steepling streets;

I have held gators in my hand

And witnessed giant sporting feats.

No more will I do these again

While hate and cruelty maintain.

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To climb those hundred, hollow creaking stairs

And shuffle onto tiny wooden benches,

And listen to those around me,

With their home counties accents

And rude sense of entitlement,

Grumbled that their squashed up seats,

Even with their paid for padded cushions,

Aweayre too narrow, too cramped, too hard,

Too damned uncomfortable for their

Four hundred years evolved backsides.

To queue for what seems hours at the bar,

Jostled, muttered at, and splashed with beer

By every sweaty, tie-dyed passed by

Who left it late to heed the bathroom call;

And drenched again as hey return,

still attending to their open flies,

(No washing of hands here),

To catch the band’s favourite song of theirs

And muscle into my dancing space

Beneath the players on the stage.

To search, perchance to find

That cherished corner in the church

Of coffee, cake and ten thousand books.

Wherein I can plant myself for hours

And pen these verses or plan new work;

Only to find that a young family of four,

Day trippers from their wide eyed curiosity,

Have been patiently lurking all the while

At the end of the frantic, noisy counter.

Ready to claim the table that belongs to me.

To cram in the case that last best pair of shorts,

Only to find the balance tipped on the scales

Cursing the traffic on the motorway approach,

And then to be told of a delay of three hours;

To lose wifi, and thus your boarding pass,

At that most crucial moment beside the gate,

To spend eleven hours imprisoned in a box,

Wedged in by by the largest passenger on board,

And learn your entertainment system’s out of order

And your sole preferred meal option has run out.

All these, and a thousand other irritations

That filed our lives with strain and care,

I crave that they might yet soon return,

For every one I could now gladly bear.

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It was midday and the stores on Haight Street were drowsily coming to life under a warming sun. A gaggle of skateboarders, ageing “heads”, dogs and guitars waited at the lights at Stanyan to cross over to Hippie Hill for an afternoon of music, marijuana and merriment.

We had just enjoyed a sumptuous lunch of chicken pesto, Greek chicken wraps and hummus plate at the Blue Front Café, (sadly, one of the many eateries that has subsequently closed), and were entering a brightly coloured establishment which had historically divested us of our holiday dollars more than any other over the previous two decades.

As we planted ourselves in the rear of the store to look for any new tie-dye shirts from Liquid Blue, the silence was broken by a chirpy Californian female voice.

“Hey, you guys, let me explain the layout in here for you. At this end you will find the Grateful Dead t-shirts, organised by size, while over here are my own designs…….”

It was clear that the woman was going to continue with this well-rehearsed speech for some time, and, of course, she was only trying to be helpful. But I have an aversion to being what I perceive as “stalked” in stores by staff when all I want to do is look for myself and ask questions if I have a need.

So, I interrupted her rather abruptly – for which I have since apologised on many occasions – explaining that for nearly twenty years we had been rummaging through her colourful stock, and left laden with t-shirts, dresses, badges, stickers and other paraphernalia.

Rather than being deterred by my rude riposte, she squealed at the news, thanking us for our custom (not service – that is generally reserved for the military) and asking us where we were from, a perfectly reasonable icebreaker if one were really needed. I explained that we were from England, that I had revered the Dead since the late sixties and had visited the store many times before. This triggered a discussion about our mutual love for the music and the city.

I mentioned that we were heading for the Great American Music Hall that evening to see Dark Star Orchestra, the band formed in Chicago that had been replicating entire Dead shows since 1997. Alicia, as she was called, was thrilled to hear and said “we’re going too, do you wanna hang out?” By “we” she had included her partner, Jerry (no, not that one) who was, at the time, the long term owner of the store.

Despite the presumption (at least to British ears) in the question we instantly accepted the offer, and as we left with Casey Jones and Alice in Wonderland tees, arranged to meet in the line outside the venue at 6pm.

Disembarking the 47 Muni, rather uncharitably dubbed by my wife the “stinky bus”, at Van Ness and O’Farrell, we strode excitedly along the two blocks to join a mercifully short line at the venue. Dead concerts past were recalled as the air reeked of pot and a lone, long haired man patrolled the street with a barely legible, but at least grammatically correct, “I need a miracle” message scrawled on a scrap of cardboard with a Sharpie.

Alicia and Jerry joined us ten minutes later and we made our way to the upper floor where we had booked tables, allowing a prime position leaning on the railing that overlooked the stage below. We could not have had a better view as we christened our new tie-dye outfits. The ticket price had included a meal from a limited menu. With Californian and English choices on offer, we all opted for the latter – fish and chips (the American version of several small fish pieces rather than the single, larger British version).

This was the second time we had seen Dark Star Orchestra, the first having been at the House of Blues in Las Vegas on the eve of my sixtieth birthday two years earlier, when they had played a show from the early nineties which my wife had struggled to embrace, leading her to abandon the show midway through the second set halfway through a characteristically lengthy Eyes of the World jam in favour of the penny slot machines on the Mandalay Bay casino floor. 

She had still not, at this stage, been fully converted to the Dead’s music, despite the fact that I had tried for thirty years to convince her of their greatness. She did, however, enjoy many of the earlier, shorter songs like Sugar Magnolia, Uncle John’s Band, Box of Rain and her favourite, Bertha.

I had been hoping that, being in San Francisco, they might play a Fillmore (West) concert on this evening, perhaps even from the run featured on the Live Dead album from 1969. And that, with some minor adaptations, is exactly what we got. I was beside myself, and my wife was happy too.

Mid way through the first set they announced that they were being joined by a special guest – Grateful Dead rhythm guitarist Bob Weir! He jammed with the band on St. Stephen and sang one of his signature cowboy songs, Me and My Uncle. The following year Bob similarly “gate crashed” Steve Earle’s set at Hardly Strictly Bluegrass in 2016. And more than a decade later, during which he had headlined Dead and Company, Wolf Brothers and countless other musical projects, and at the age of seventy eight, he shows little sign of putting himself out to pasture.

Sam Cutler, former manager of both the Dead and the Rolling Stones, spoke to the audience between sets when, naturally, I bought a t-shirt from the merchandise table, an item of clothing I reprised to lead guitarist Jeff Matson’s delight at the band’s concert at Shepherd’s Bush Empire in London in September 2022.

The concert continued past midnight. It had been a special evening, we had bonded with Alicia and Jerry, forging a friendship that continued to flourish and which led to us staying at their home with them in Petaluma on a number of occasions, attending concerts, Giants and 49ers games and meals together as well as them (separately) visiting the UK and all of us, including their two children, Aiden (Alicia’s by a previous marriage) and Ely (their own son) meeting up subsequently in Chicago.

As the Covid-19 pandemic caused a hiatus in our physical connection, we met up on Zoom on a weekly basis as they prepared to go for a morning cycle and we cooked our Sunday dinner! We even danced to favourite Dead songs when the conversation, as it did rarely, lagged.

The story of our relationship has subsequently taken several dramatic and unexpected turns, which I will address on another occasion.

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The line for breakfast in Martha’s on Church was long, stretching to the sidewalk. I ordered two decaf lattes and bagels to go. I was assailed by a grey, pig-tailed man around my age in Moody Blues t-shirt and crumpled check shorts, intrigued by my accent and “Closing of Winterland” t-shirt, he enquired:

“Do you live in the City?”

“I wish. But no, I’m staying in a cottage a few blocks away for a month”.

“Wow, you Brits really seem to love it here. Love your shirt by the way. I was there”.

“Thanks, and my turn to say wow. I have to make do with the CD and DVD”.

We stepped to one side as the line lengthened further.

“We’ve been going to concerts here for two decades. We were at the Great American Music Hall with Dark Star Orchestra last night”.

“Nice. Y’know, I’ve never seen them, but I’ve heard they’re pretty close to the Dead”.

“Yeah, they play whole shows and last night’s was the Fillmore ’69 which was view of music heaven. And Bob Weir joined them for a couple of numbers”.

“Double wow! They must have been awesome. It’s funny but you guys are wedded to the Dead, while I’ve travelled all over the UK pretty regularly to see concerts. I’ve seen the Stones, Pink Floyd and the Moody Blues, of course”.

“That’s weird but cool, because we’ve probably seen more gigs in the States than we would at home. In the past few years we’ve seen Crosby and Nash, Elvis Costello, the Doobie Brothers, Steve Miller Band, Phil Lesh and Bob Weir all in the city, and Eric Burdon in South Lake Tahoe”.

Another baby boomer further back in the line began to regale us of times following the Dead on tour in the eighties, but was cut short by the welcome announcement that my bagels were ready.

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Many of our trips to San Francisco have coincided (intentionally) with the free Hardly Strictly Bluegrass festival in Golden Gate Park over the first, invariably warm, weekend of October.

There have been a number of high spots over recent years with regular performances in particular from Steve Earle (with a guest appearance from Bob Weir of the Grateful Dead), Emmylou Harris (who traditionally closes the festival), Jack Casady and Jorma Kaukonen, guitar gods from Jefferson Airplane, the Neville Brothers, John Prine, Robert Plant, the Blind Boys of Alabama and Moonalice who performed a set of songs penned by the then recently deceased Robert Hunter, principal lyricist for the Grateful Dead.

The atmosphere could not be further from the corporate, money-driven ethos of Glastonbury and similar events and fitting that San Francisco where, along with other Californian venues, the concept of free outdoor rock festivals effectively originated in the late sixties.

But the highlight for me came in 2019 with Judy Collins. But before that I need to take you back twelve months to San Rafael in Marin County. A store owner friend of mine in Folkestone asked if I could deliver a note to Phil Lesh, the former Grateful Dead bass player, at his performance/dining venue at Terrapin Crossroads (sadly now closed, though the music lives on).

Not only was I able to deliver the note, which stated that she had adored him since the Europe ’72 tour, successfully but I also had the opportunity of a few minutes chat with the great man, who signed a postcard of his own for me to pass on to her on my return.

So pleased was my friend that I had succeeded in achieving a task that might not unreasonably have been perceived as unlikely – after all, Phil didn’t rap with random British guys in his bar every day – that she set me an even more challenging task twelve months later.

It appears that she had been as besotted with Judy Collins’s music for more than half a century as she had been with Phil Lesh’s music over the same period of time. So she asked me to deliver a letter from her to Judy on the afternoon that she was performing.

Now walking across a barroom floor to request a quick chat with a music superstar is a piece of cake compared to gaining access to another legendary artist in the middle of one of the world’s largest parks and when there are tens of thousands of other people in close proximity.

The afternoon arrived, and as the appointed time for Judy’s set approached, I gingerly made my way to the front of the stage – there did not appear to be an obvious place to go “backstage” – I was accosted, firmly but politely, by a burly African-American gentleman who may have been thinking I was getting a little too close.

I explained my predicament – which, even to my own mind, seemed a bit odd. He listened carefully and took the letter from me without making any promises. I did not hold out much hope for a positive response, but around five minutes later he returned in a similarly measured way and informed me that “Miss Collins has received the note”.

My joy would have been unconfined had Judy referred to it whilst she was on stage, but she did not. She did, however, sing Both Sides Now to me – well, me and many others – on my birthday.

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A tangle of wooden stairs

Criss cross the patios

On a humid late afternoon.

Bottlebrush and butterflies

Flutter in the stifling breeze.

Plump ripe limes droop

In cracked terracotta pots

And tireless bees cavort

Among the jasmine shrubs.

The breasts of the maiden

Temporarily lose their nipples

Till Sutro Tower pokes through the fog.

The screech of cop cars on Mission

Cannot compete with

The joyful laughter of

Mexican and Chinese children

Let loose from Saint James school

On Fair Oaks Street.

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From Menlo Park and Mountain View

They stalk the streets where strollers go,

Forbidding beasts with blacked out eyes

Bound for Sunset, Haight and Castro.

As dusk falls over Salesforce Tower,

And Transamerica’s tip fades,

They blend in with the growing gloom

Yet still stand out on their parades.   

Beside a bougainvillea bush

Between wide Dolores and Church,

Silently these modern Molochs

Pull up to of their cargo purge.

They vomit forth a dozen men,
Each unaccompanied and young,

Not a word spoken between them

Nor glance of recognition sprung.

Their only friends matching backpacks

From which hang heavy hydro flasks,

Courtesy of the company  

That pays them for their key tech tasks.

This quiet yet purposeful dance

Will recommence next morn at eight,

When partners jog to coffee shops,

Before their nail and yoga dates.

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On what would have been his 106th birthday, a poem from the great Lawrence Ferlinghetti, founder and owner of the City Lights bookstore in San Francisco. Never have its sentiments been more pertinent.

Pity the nation whose people are sheep
And whose shepherds mislead them
Pity the nation whose leaders are liars
Whose sages are silenced
and whose bigots haunt the airways
Pity the nation that raises not its voice
but aims to rule the world
by force and by torture
And knows
No other language but its own
Pity the nation whose breath is money
and sleeps the sleep of the too well fed
Pity the nation Oh pity the people of my country
My country, tears of thee
Sweet land of liberty!

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You were instantly friends with my wife

Nearly thirty years ago,

Since, sharing countless photographs –

She grasping a gin and tonic

And you, well, just sitting there.

You were not built for comfort,

The black sheep of the bar

Among the beer stained stools,

Wood backed benches,

Vintage Beat memorabilia

And framed newspaper cuttings.

Though card payments

Have largely usurped cash,

And berets been replaced

By Giants baseball caps,

You’ve not changed;

Apart from a much needed

Covid-era makeover

When the bar sat empty

And hands were otherwise idle.

Four years crawled past

During which we thought

We had seen the last of your

Faded, creaking glory;

But you were waiting

In the usual place,

Sturdier and cleaner than ever.

.

Few others seem to share

The fascination you hold for us

As they stride past in pursuit

Of more conventional

Rear end resting places.

But I wonder if Jack or Allen

Or more likely Lawrence,

From across the alley

Ever lounged in your

Elegant wicker straitjacket?

How many more times

We will have the chance

To enter that threshold

To find you there

Is not in my gift,

But you will always remain

At least a conversation piece.

If not a photo opportunity.

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I dreamt long last night of San Francisco,
As I have done so many nights before;
I left my heart there thirty years ago,
No more was I waiting outside her door.

Sitting upon summer brown Bernal Hill,
Watching the golden city laid before me   
Like a lover spread ‘cross a crumpled bed,
In no sweeter place would I rather be.

Standing astride the stunning Sunset steps

As the cool fog weaves its wild, wondrous spell,
Slicing Sutro Tower in half before,
In a heartbeat, it returns and all’s well.

Hanging for dear life from the cable car
I crest the hill on Hyde at dawn of day,
Siren song from all the foghorns moaning
As we hurtle down to the glistening bay.

Eating popovers by Pacific shore
Among the tourists and locals well dressed,
Humming along to O Sole Mio
While wrestling a ristretto at Trieste.

Hailing Josh Norton and his doting flock,
As they follow him on the Barbary Coast,
Waiting two hours in Zazie’s lengthening line
For bacon, eggs benedict and French toast.

Hunting for tie-dye tees in Hippie Haight,
Paying Harvey homage on Castro Street,
Reading a novel on the F Streetcar
As it clanks along to a Market beat.

Drinking a cool, tall glass of Anchor Steam
With ghosts of Ginsberg, Neal and Kerouac,
In North Beach’s beloved beat retreat
With Joyce’s peering portrait at my back.

Gorging on Gilroy’s garlic fries at the yard
As gulls circle above to claim what’s left,
Pablo slams a mighty walk off splash hit
To leave downhearted Dodgers fans bereft.

Sharing tales of shows at the Fillmore West
In Martha and Brothers at breakfast break,
The Blackpool boat tram slithers past and waves
To Lovejoy’s ladies taking tea and cake.

The scent of jasmine on our Noe porch,
Sea lions cavorting on the wharfside pier,
Sourdough with Coppola Sauvignon blanc,
And that “bracelet of bridges” held so dear.

These and other images flood my mind –
Painted houses, murals and gleaming bay,
Bowls of cioppino and Irish coffees,
I curse the undue advent of the day.

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